Monday, August 27, 2007

Venice, Cesena, Cattolica and Tony Parker

Missed last week’s blog entry due to my travels in Italy.

Three of my cousins and my aunt flew from Los Angeles to Venice, Italy to begin a 12-day cruise around the Mediterranean. Thanks to some prodding and subsequent covert planning with one of my cousins, I went to Venice and gave my aunt and other cousins quite a surprise when I showed up and knocked on their door at their hotel. Although the first time one sees Venice it’s unforgettable, it’s probably my least favorite Italian city given how expensive it is, its lack of good food and the density of tourists. But this trip I quite enjoyed the city – probably because I stayed on the more quiet island just across the Grand Canal from St Marco’s Square. And we even found a superb restaurant that only a local (or a tourist that got really good directions from a local) could find (seriously ask me for the name of the place if you’re going to Venice).

To see more images of Venice, CLICK HERE.

Guided by its ridiculously tasty gelato stands, we passed a couple of nice days exploring Venice before saying our goodbyes. I took the boat back to the airport, rented a miniscule Smart Car and headed down the Adriatic coast to meet some of my Italian friends who happened to be vacationing there (they normally live in Paris). Passed an enormous roadside pumpkin/squash/gourd stand (see photo) and had some dramatic views of the coast in between the passing storm clouds. Met my friends in Cesena, where we spent a wonderful evening eating local food (I wish I could remember the name of the pizza/calzone-related dish we all shared for dinner - pictured above) and having a drink at an out-of-the-way villa that my friend from Cesena knew about.

Spent the night and the next day at my friend’s aunt’s house in Cattolica. The house was quite large and situated on a huge plot of land covered with various fruit trees. Attached to the house was a 12th century chapel that was included on the Italian heritage registry. It was beautiful but the highlight was the homemade pasta and peach tart lunch made from the garden veggies and fruits that my friend’s aunt prepared for us – a real treat.
Before I left Paris for Italy, I got to photograph the French national basketball team compete in a mini-tournament on the outskirts of Paris. Normally this event would be almost as interesting as watching a tree grow but since NBA star point guard Tony Parker (yes, the one who was recently married to the Desperate Housewives woman) was playing, I went to go shoot it. The game included a few other known players such as Lakers reserve Ronny Turiaf and Frederick Weiss, the guy known only as the seven-footer that Vince Carter jumped completely over and dunked on during the Olympics.
Some photos of the week:

Unbelievable Toy

Anti-pollution police

This is just wrong in France (or anywhere really)

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Tour de France, Bretagne and Tov

After my ranting and raving in my last blog entry, this week will be more tame, reflecting the tameness of Paris in the middle of August. Getting caught up on the news here, the Tour de Drugs/France arrived in Paris 2 weeks ago.

The finish lacked the excitement of past Tours, and personally, my favorite story of the Tour was the fact that due to poor crowd organization (how strange?), the wife of Tour winner Alberto Contador was unable to get to her husband and missed seeing him accept the trophy at the winner’s ceremony.

I spent a few days in and around Saint Malo, a town about 250 miles from Paris on the Brittany (Bretagne) coast just below the Channel Islands. Other than getting a speeding ticket for going 7 miles per hour over the speed limit while I was the slowest car on the highway, the highlight was a very dramatic sunset, evidently not so uncommon there.


And finally, and old friend came back into my life. I got to take care of a tiny toy Yorkshire terrier named Tov.


Tov and I have a history together - we have been all over France together, whizzing around the South and the North of France in our Smart Car on vacation in 2002 and 2003. Tov’s owner would travel a lot and left the dog with me frequently a few years ago and we had a ball together (at least I did!). Well he’s back this week so I dug up a few old photos from his last visit.
A few photos of the week ...

Cat Roar

Harp Player in Dinan

Diners Watching Sunset in St Malo

Mayor of Paris ... Smoking

Sunday, August 5, 2007

15 Things I Hate About Paris ...

I’ve had some bad breaks and have been a bit frustrated in Paris the last couple of weeks so I thought I’d vent a little. Here goes:

15 Things I Hate About Paris (in no particular order) …

1) Escalators

If I was in Cameroon and each time I approached an escalator it wasn’t working, I wouldn’t find it difficult to accept. But in a country that has nuclear technology and develops satellites, I would expect that they would have worked out how to keep an escalator running more than just a few times a month. From the airport (those long people movers) to metro stations, escalators are out of order a significant percentage of time. And I didn’t even mention the cruel lack of escalators at the metro stations that connect to the big train stations where travelers have to carry their heavy bags upstairs.

2) The temperature on Metro line 4

The temperature on this Metro line is independent of the outside temperature; the air inside each cabin is completely still and without ventilation; it usually takes between 1 and 2 stops before everyone in the cabin is sweating. I’m not sure why this happens even during the winter, perhaps because the metro itself generates heat throughout the day. I’m working on sending a letter to the RATP (the people in charge of the metro) asking for an explanation. I’m holding my breath for a response.

2) Supermarket Supplies

It’s a very common occurrence that as soon as I find a product in the supermarket that I like, when I go back to buy it again, it’s gone; sometimes permanently, but more frequently, temporarily. It can make it difficult to plan a meal. Speaking of which, to plan a semi-elaborate meal can mean going to 3 or even 4 different markets to get the necessary supplies.

4) Lowlifes

I live in a nice area of Paris. But even here, like everywhere I’ve lived in Paris, a few nights a week there is some drunk lowlife that thinks yelling unintelligible sounds at high decibel levels is a good idea. Sometimes it’s a group of 19-year old Americans celebrating after having their first legal beer.

5) Fermeture Exceptionelle

Two words that I dread. You travel across the city to get to that one store that sells a “R” key for your 18th century typewriter and when you arrive, there is a handwritten sign on the door saying “Fermeture Exceptionelle”, meaning that they are closed exceptionally on this day. I often see stores that keep a permanent “Fermeture Exceptionelle” sign on the back of their front door to use on those “exceptional” occasions. And I didn’t even mention those frequent times when you arrive at 4:40pm at a store that closes at 5pm and they’re already closed.

6) The Look

One of my favorites … the now-familiar look of store employees when I ask them for a common item like, say a towel. The best way I can describe it is to imagine walking into a big store like a Target and asking the first employee that you see if they have a giraffe made of cotton candy. The look that you would get from that employee is probably about the same as the look I get when I ask a towel store employee for a towel. As if I was the first person in history to ask for this item. And it’s not because of my accent; I’ve seen it consistently happen to native French speakers as well.

7) Good Ideas, Bad Implementation

So common here. Someone will come up with a great, creative idea to save time or really help people but the implementation of the idea is done so poorly that it would have been better to not have the idea in the first place. Perfect example is the new bicycle program in Paris. Great idea, but … frequently the electronic station doesn’t work (I’ve actually seen a Windows XP error screen on the kiosk), it doesn’t take foreign credit cards (really good considering this program was also meant for tourists), the instructions on how to take a bike are ridiculously confusing (you have to enter a pin code 3 times!) and my favorite one … to sign up for a yearly membership you are required to go online; great, until you come to the last step which tells you that you must now print out the form and mail it in to them.

8) People Flow & Lines

For those of you who have been to Paris, this one is no surprise. There seems to be something inherent in the French character that hates to stand in a line. Or even to do something to control the flow of how people move. If you see a ticket window at a movie theatre, it’s not uncommon to see 4 or 5 different lines all funneling into that window. And I won’t even mention the number of times that the person behind me in line disrespected my personal space so seriously that I had to wonder if I may be legally wed to them. At big events like say the French Open Tennis, the organizers will never use those dividers that make people move one direction on one side and the opposite direction on the other. So moving around the grounds is not so unlike those war scenes in Ben Hur with 10,000 people charging full steam ahead into 10,000 others.

9) Weekly Metro Tickets

If you’re going to be moving around a lot during 1 week in Paris, you’re in luck because you can buy a 1 week metro pass that can save you money. That is, you’re in luck if your week goes from Monday to Sunday. You can’t buy a weekly pass that goes from say Wednesday to Tuesday. If you buy a weekly pass on a Wednesday, it still expires the following Sunday. Good thinking…

10) Reverse Economies of Scale

This is a phenomenon that I’ve been observing for more than 5 years and I must say I find it less now than I did 5 years ago but it still pops up from time to time. You go to the store and look at the price of one box of tissues; it costs say 1 euro. Right next to that box is a 3-pack of the same tissues that costs … 3.50 euros. If this happened once or twice, or only in a mama and papa kind of store where maybe their math skills we’re not so good, I could understand it. But I’ve seen this happen in the largest of large department stores in Paris and across a wide variety of product types. At one time I theorized that this was, in effect, a “convenience” charge for having the products all nicely bundled together so they were easier to carry home; but I really have no idea why this happens.

11) Street Smashing

This is a hotly debated one among me, myself and I. If you walk on a sidewalk anywhere in Paris, no matter the width of the sidewalk, no matter how many people are walking the opposite direction as you on the sidewalk, someone will smash into you. I swear to you that even if only one person is walking towards me and the sidewalk is as wide as the ones on the Champs Elysees, that person will find a way to smash into me. And it’s not just me; I’ve discussed this phenomenon at length with many of my friends. No one disagrees that this happens, the debate is only about WHY it happens. In Marrakech you can have 450 people moving towards 450 other people on the same sidewalk and not one person will bump into the other. Why does this happen?

12) Vacations

French society is so unbelievably square. By square, I mean that there is a right way to do EVERYTHING. Even a right time to do everything. Every year people do the same thing (go to some beachy place) virtually on the same day (July 15) and then come back and talk about their vacation for approximately 3 weeks. I didn’t mention the 3 weeks before the vacation that is spent asking each person they see when they are going to take their vacation.

13) Chinese Food

Have you ever been to the Slovenia? Or Turkey? Or Luxembourg? If yes, have you eaten Chinese food in any of these places? It tastes like … Chinese food! God bless the Chinese immigrants who bring their delicious food to other countries and manage to exactly reproduce the flavor in their new country. I find this true in EVERY country except … France. Chinese food tastes like crap here. I must have tried dozens of Chinese restaurants and take-away places throughout the city and cannot say that even 1 time I’ve had a really good meal that tastes like … Chinese food.

14) Smells

I don’t have much to say on this subject except that in most narrow passages or alleyways throughout the city, whether between two apartment buildings or in a corridor leading out of the metro, there is frequently a distinct smell of either piss, puke or crap. Not that there’s anything wrong with those things but it does get a little annoying if you’re, say, breathing.

15) Pay to Pay

By far and away my favorite thing to complain about in France. And this is one that most of you probably won’t be aware of because it doesn’t really affect visitors. In France, you have to pay to pay. What I mean is that if I want to rent a car, or make airlines reservations or even call the damn cell phone company from my cell phone (!), I have to pay anywhere from 10 to 34 cents per minute. Yes, you read this correctly. It’s exactly the OPPOSITE of a toll-free telephone number that virtually all businesses in the civilized world have. And to top it off, if I have a technical problem with, for example, my internet and I have to call my provider to tell them that there is something wrong with their system, I have to pay them 34 cents a minute to tell them that.

I feel much better now ☺

Sometime in the future I’ll do a “15 Things I Love About Paris” entry.

And continuing with the different blog style this week, here are two videos of the week (remember to give them a few minutes to load):

Video #1 Riding through Paris

and

Video #2 Man I saw on Pont St Louis this week